| Between the East and
West MacDonnel Ranges, in the heart of Central Australia,
sits the most famous outback town of Alice Springs in the
Northern Territory.
The original site was actually at
the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, several kilometres
to the north of the city centre. Despite its beginning as
a remote outpost, present day Alice is well serviced by
it's airport, and,
culturally rich thanks to the number of visitors from all
over the world and their influences. It has excellent restaurants,
an assortment of accommodation
and nightlife and hosts a calendar of unusual and stimulating
events throughout the year.
An
excellent view of Alice Springs can be had from Anzac Hill
and is consequently a good starting point for any town tour.
As you go down the hill and stroll through the Todd Mall,you
can shop for everything from second-hand books to camping
equipment and semi-precious stones to organic liquorice.
The traditional owners of the area are the Arrernte people.
The Cultural Precinct, a short drive or walk from the city
centre, is home to several of their sites ( all are sacred)
as well as many interesting galleries and museums.
Then there's the Alice Springs events calender which offers
a real taste of the outback sense of humour. Marvel at some
of Australia's finest headwear at the annual Beanie Festival
or enjoy the ridiculous Henley-on-Todd Regatta set on the
almost permanently dry river bed of the Todd River. Held
in the centre of Australia at Alice Springs, it's the sort
of event that can motivate the most mature, conservative
business people into the roles of 'Vikings' and 'Pirates'
crewing battle boats bristling with mortars and high pressure
water cannons.
In 1962, Reg Smith and his compatriots
at the Alice Springs Meteorological Bureau proposed they
hold an actual regatta along the lines of the famous Henley-on-Thames,
a race between Cambridge and Oxford Universities. The idea
was taken up by the Rotary club of Alice Springs, and the
fact that the town was 1,500 kilometres from the nearest
large body of water was never seen as a problem. Watching
seemingly sane people race in bottomless 'eights', 'oxford
tubs', 'bath tubs' and yachts through the deep coarse sand
of the Todd River provides an unique spectacle amongst world
sporting events.
The multi-event program attracts many
local and international participants from the audience who
often finish up on world television news paddling canoes
with sand shovels and in 'land lubber' events like filling
empty 44 gallon drums with sand.
Alice Springs is the meeting place
of many different cultures and the Alice Desert Festival,
in the heart of Australias outback, will celebrate this
rich diversity. The Alice Desert Festival is a unique 3
day annual event showcasing the thriving community of visual
and performing artists, both indigenous and non indigenous
from the Central Australian region. The Festival also attracts
inspirational acts from both other states and overseas to
further enhance and develop the culturally diverse and eccentric
local arts industry.
The Festival begins with its street parade in the Todd Mall
when the community of Alice is joined by many home and overseas
visitors to joyously celebrate in this free community event.
The festival will then bring to the streets, theatres and
galleries and public venues of Alice Springs an amazing
array of events from theatre, dance, films, sculpture, music,
poetry readings, physical theatre, workshops, pottery, writing
and book launches, indigenous art and craft, to concert
evenings of jazz, orchestral, hip hop, samba, salsa, fusion
and world music.
The
Festival closes with Desertsong, when one is invited to
throw down your swag on the sands of the Todd River bed
under the splendour of the night sky for an unforgettable
journey of haunting desert harmonies by regional indigenous
choirs.
For sports fans there is the Alice
Springs Masters Games. These are a biennial sporting event
aimed at attracting and encouraging mature people to participate
in over 30 competitive events. These games are known as
the Friendly Games and are one of the highlights of the
Alice Springs social and sporting calendar.
Desert Mob is an annual exhibition
presented by the Araluen Galleries, Alice Springs Cultural
Precinct, featuring art works from Aboriginal Art Centres
in Central Australia, encompassing the Northern Territory,
South Australian and Western Australia. The exhibition gives
visitors a complete overview of the work by Aboriginal artists
in this vast region and the opportunity to purchase artworks
from both new and established artists all in one place,
directly from the art centres.
The Aboriginal language Warlpiri is spoken at the Araluen
Galleries. As a prelude to the annual Desert Mob exhibition
there is what is known as the Desert Mob Market Place which
is held on the second weekend of September each year and
brings together Aboriginal art centres in Central Australia
to display a wide variety of art and craft works, with artists
and art co-ordinators on hand to not only sell but also
to discuss their works.
Held in the foyer of the Araluen Galleries,
the MarketPlace event offers paintings, ceramics, prints
and textile works, with everything for sale being £80 or
under.
Located 250 kilometres south-west of Alice Springs, the
Mount Ebenezer Roadhouse is one of the few Aboriginal-owned
roadhouses in the Northern Territory. Within the historic
stone buildings, visitors can enjoy homemade foods and view
locally produced Aboriginal art in the impressive gallery
with its unique red sand floor and hessian walls.
On the Mereenie Loop Road, situated about 130 kilometres
south west of Alice Springs is the Aboriginal community
of Hermannsburg. After this you will reach the beautiful
Finke Gorge National Park.
The German name of Hermannsburg was chosen by the Lutheran
pastors who, in the 1880’s, established a small mission
for the Arrernte Aboriginal people here. Artist Albert Namatjira
was born here and his house, which is about three kilometres
west of Hermannsburg, is, to this day, open to visitors.
Day
tours are possible to organise out of Alice Springs though
a campsite and accommodation are located in and around Hermannsburg.
Additional camping facilities can be found at the nearby
Palm Valley in the Finke Gorge National Park.
It is thought that the Finke River is one of the world's
oldest water ways but the Finke Gorge National Park is best
known for Palm Valley, which contains groves of exclusive
and beautiful cabbage palms which are botanic left overs
from when Central Australia was rich in tropical forests
millions of years ago.
A local event, the Tattersall's Finke
Desert Race, is arguably Australia's premier off road racing
event attracting bike, car and buggy entries from all around
Australia and overseas. It has the reputation of being one
of the most difficult off road races in one of the most
remote places in the world. The Finke, as it is known, is
run along sections of what was the Old Ghan Railway service
track adjacent to the railway line along a winding corrugated
track, which snakes through typical outback terrain of red
dirt, sand, spinifex, mulga and desert oaks. It's a gruelling
460 kilometres, conducted as a return race from Alice Springs
230 kilometres south to Aputula Aboriginal Community at
Finke. The Finke is a unique event in that in enables people
from all walks of life to become involved. For 3 days, it
is estimated that more than 12,000 people camp beside the
racetrack, sleeping under the stars in tens and swags. Come
and experience a truly unique outback event.
As you travel further west along the
Mereenie Loop Road you will arrive at the captivating Tnorala
(also known as Gosse Bluff) Conservation Reserve, which
is the site of a huge crater and subsequently a place of
international scientific interest as well as cultural significance
to the Western Arrernte Aboriginal people.
Stretching out for hundreds of kilometres on both sides
of Alice Springs are The East and West MacDonnell Ranges.
The Aboriginee owners of the Alice Springs area are the
Arrernte people and these people still believe today that
giant caterpillars called the Yeperenye became the Ranges
and that they entered this world through one of the enormous
gaps in the escarpments of the area.
Access
to the West MacDonnell Ranges from Alice Springs is not
difficult and each of the West MacDonnell's chasms and gorges
has its own unique character and scenery. Simpsons Gap has
a permanent pool and rock wallabies live in and around the
gap's rocky ridges.The reflecting overhead sun at midday
lights up the Standley Chasm in amazing colours of fire.
Pretty swimming holes such as Ellery Creek Big Hole, and
the gorges of Ormiston, Glen Helen and Redbank offer a cooling
relief on a hot day. It is also possible to visit the Ochre
Pits that desert Aboriginal people once used as a quarry
for ochre pigments.On the opposite side, the east MacDonnell
Ranges, while not as well known as the West MacDonnells,
do provide some fabulous scenery for those out bush walking
and camping.Arltunga, a ghost town that was the site of
a gold rush in the 1930's, is also worth a visit, and another
place of particular impressive natural beauty is Trephina
Gorge which is best known for its sheer quartzite cliffs
and River Red Gum lined creeks and rivers. It is also an
excellent place to try and see the black flanked rock wallaby
which is quite a rare species of marsupial. The nearby John
Hayes Rockhole is good for swimming.All of this makes a
visit to the East MacDonnells definitely worthwhile.
The area stretching north of Alice
Springs is an area known for its serene beauty and is an
ideal place for gem fossicking, bush trekking, camping and
four-wheel-driving.
The imposing rich, red walls of Ormiston
Gorge were caused by huge geological forces, and thus creating
one of the most acclaimed gorges of central Australia. The
West MacDonnell Ranges National Park is rich in flora and
fauna, and sets the scene for an unforgettable bushwalking
trip. In places, Ormiston gorge rises to over 300 metres
in some places, and those seeking adventure can spend many
hours exploring. The pound runs east from the large waterhole
at the gorge. This waterhole is around 14 metres deep, and
fairly beckons the traveller at the end of a rewarding day
exploring.
The gorge is dotted by the graceful
river red gums and adorable wallabies that make the park
their home. You will also find a fascinating collection
of native fauna that includes plant species left over from
a forgotten, tropical past.
Ormiston Creek runs through West MacDonnell
National Park. It is a tributary of the Finke River, which
some say is the oldest river in the world. The area was
named by explorer Peter Egerton Warburton on his 1873-74
journey from Alice Springs across the Great Sandy Desert
to the Western Australian coast.
A
number of walks in the area allow you to choose your way
to best explore the gorge. The seven kilometre Ormiston
Pound Walk leads you on a circuit from the visitor centre,
across the slopes, onto the flat floor of the pound. It
returns along the gorge by the main waterhole. Barbecue
facilities invite you to relax and enjoy this scenic landscape.
70 kilometres north of Alice Springs is where the Plenty
Highway separates from the explorers and links travellers
with Queensland through the Harts Ranges which is the scene
of a gem and mineral rush in the 19th Century and is now
an area of great cultural significance to the Arrernte people.
You can fossick for your own gems with a tag along tour
from Gemtree, hunting for semi-precious stones like garnets
and zircons.
Another of those spectacularly beautiful spots is Rainbow
valley in central Australia that appears to have been designed
especially for people who love to see beautiful landscapes.
Rainbow Valley, part of the James Range, is around 75 kilometres,
about an hour's drive from Alice Springs. The name comes
from the array of colours in the stone, ochre, rose, vermilion,
rust and gold. The colours seem to change depending on the
atmosphere, light and time of day.
A combination of water, weathering
and erosion has coloured and sculpted the semi-circle of
peaks and valleys that make up this reserve. Over millions
of years, the red iron of the sandstone layers was dissolved
in water, and was then drawn to the surface in the dry season.
The red minerals formed a dark, iron-rich surface layer,
with the white layers lying below. The dark red capping
is hard, and weathers slowly while the soft white sandstone
below weathers far more quickly, into loose sand. Weathering
and erosion has also sculpted the shape of the peaks and
the valley into bluffs, peaks and towers.
Sunrise
or sunset are the best times of day to come here, when the
light really has a chance to transform the peaks. Visitors
are welcome all year around, to go camping, to bushwalk
and to take fantastic pictures. However the best time to
come is during the cooler months, between April and November.
The Tanami is the quintessence of what most of us regard
as a desert. It is a vast, flat and sandy red landscape
and here the notorious Tanami Track cuts a sandy course
of over 1,000km from Alice Springs to Halls Creek in Western
Australia's Kimberley region. Only the most experienced
4-wheel drivers should tackle this so you have been warned!
Those who travel further north along the Explorer's Way
will come across settlements such as Aileron which is a
welcome stop for refreshments, just as it was for early
pioneers working along the old Overland Telegraph Line that
once relayed messages between Adelaide and Darwin. The Explorers
Way follows the same route as the famous Australian explorer
John McDougall Stuart, the first man to travel across Australia.
His journey started in Adelaide on 26th October 1861 and
ended near Darwin on 24th July 1862.
The route takes in the Flinders Ranges,
Alice Springs, Ayers Rock (Uluru), Kakadu National Park
and finally Darwin.
The Red Centre Way (previously called
Pioneer’s Way) joins Australia’s Northern Territory landmarks
of Ayers Rock (Uluru), Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) and Watarrka
National Park (Kings Canyon). It covers a total of 850km
and can take up to 5 days to travel it’s length.
The Watarrka National Park is well
known in Australia as the home of Kings Canyon, a huge crater
with a depth of 270 metres. It can be found at the western
edge of the George Gill Ranges some 295 kilometres to the
north east of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and about the
same distance west of Alice Springs. To Kings Canyon from
Uluru takes about three hours by car by taking the Lasseter
Highway and Luritja Road whereas four-wheel vehicle drivers
who have least a 24 hours to spare can take the unsealed
Mereenie Loop from Alice Springs.
An
important conservation area, Watarrka has many rock holes
and gorges which provide refuge for over 600 species of
plants and many animals. The red rock face of Kings Canyon
rises straight up for over 100 metres above dense forests
of palms, ferns and cycads helping shelter them from the
surrounding arrid conditions.
For the best view of the Canyon rim
you can take a walk which takes up to four hours and which
is about 6km in length but only if you are physically fit
as it is quite a tough climb.
Whilst doing this walk you will get
good views of the weathered, buttressed domes of 'the Lost
City' and the 'Garden of Eden' which is a sheltered valley
with permanent waterholes and green vegetation. If this
all sounds a bit of a grind you can do the much shorter
and easier Kings Creek walk that leads into the centre of
the Canyon.The name Watarrka comes from an Aboriginal word
referring to the umbrella bush that grows in abundance here.
Watarrka National Park has been home to the Luritja people
for over 20,000 years and this particular area of Australia
was hardly known to Europeans until fairly recently with
Ernest Giles(1835-1897) being the first white man to explore
the area in 1872. At the Kings Canyon Resort, seven kilometres
from the Park, there is various types of accommodation,
campsites, a service station and a shop. Further on at Kings
Creek Station some 35 kilometres from the Park, also has
campsites and basic hotel accommodation.
Established as a frontier settlement town for north-south
travel through the outback, Alice Springs was originally
named Stuart but was re-named in 1933. Set almost in the
exact centre of this vast continent Alice Springs is 1200
km from the sea and 1500 km from the nearest major city.
Its sits at the mid-point of the Adelaide-Darwin Railway.
Tourism is by far the major tourist
industry although about 700 workers are located 19km south-west
of Alice Springs at Pine Gap the U.S./Australia satellite
monitoring base. The town has a strong American influence
anddue to this Alice Springs sees celebrations of all major
stateside festivals such as Halloween, Independence Day
and Thanksgiving. Baseball, American football and baseball
are played along side the more traditional Australian games
of cricket, Australian football and rugby.
Aboriginal people from all over the
region visit the town to use its services. Resident in ‘town
camps’ in the suburbs and according to the 2001 census Aborigines
make up about 17% of the population and about 29% of the
Northern Territory.
The climate is arid with little
or no rainfall although this can vary considerably from
year to year. Summer temperatures can reach as high as 48
degrees celsius whilst in winter temperatures have been
reported as low as -10 degrees. Click here for tourist
information.
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